
Возвращаемся в нормальной жизни.
Открылись музеи.
Музей под открытым небом – тысячи раз я слышала и сама произносила эти слова. Наполняя их разным смыслом.
В Питере речь шла о том, что невозможно посчитать число ценных объектов в городе, он весь – музей.
Места археологических раскопок в Греции или Израиле – тоже музеи под открытым небом. Зачастую – это целые города.
Недавно мы посетили музей, который рассказывает об истории нелегальной иммиграции в Эрец-Исраэль. И это тоже – музей под открытым небом.
Рядом транспортная развязка, шуршат шинами машины, фуникулёр поднимает пассажиров на вершину горы Кармель.
А ты проходишь на территорию музея – и время поворачивает вспять.
Вы, конечно, читали роман «Исход» Леона Юриса.
Он принёс автору всемирную известность. В романе описаны исторические события, охватывающие почти сотню лет: от еврейских погромов на территории Российской империи в конце XIX века до создания государства Израиль в середине ХХ века.
Возвращение на историческую родину и борьба за создание собственного государства на фоне истории любви, как и положено большому роману. Да, это художественное произведение, не стоит относиться к нему, как к документальному полотну. Но роман позволяет нам на своих страницах увидеть, прочувствовать, задуматься над тем, что пришлось пережить евреям в борьбе за собственное государство.
Тираж романа превысил 7 миллионов экземпляров, он был переведён на 50 языков и экранизирован.
Точно так же — «Исход», или «Эксодус», в английской транскрипции, «Исход-1947», назывался один из кораблей, которые доставляли еврейских беженцев в Палестину, находившуюся тогда под британским мандатом.
Так вот, музей – и об этих рейсах тоже. О том, кто, как и в каких условиях, преодолевая немыслимые трудности, помогал евреям попасть домой.
Многие, очень многие погибли в пути.
Кого-то вылавливали из воды у самого берега вожделенной земли и … вывозили в лагеря на Кипр. Люди, чудом уцелевшие в концлагерях, опять оказывались за колючей проволокой и ожидали решения своей судьбы. Кто принимал за них эти решения? Почему они оказались лишены возможности самостоятельно решать свою судьбу?
Вопросы риторические, наверное.
Музей рассказывает о времени борьбы за иммиграцию в Эрец-Исраэль в период с 1934 по 1948 годы.
Это одна из важных вех в создании государства Израиль.
Организованная иммиграция в Израиль началась в 1934 году. В это время в Германии к власти пришли нацисты, в Европе был заметен рост антисемитских явлений.
Правила британского мандата не допускали свободного въезда евреев в Эрец-Исраэль.
Потому и возникает нелегальная иммиграция.
Уже до начала Второй мировой войны сюда прибыло около пятидесяти судов нелегальных иммигрантов.
На стендах показаны, из каких стран сколько рейсов были сделаны.
Новая волна нелегальной иммиграции начался с окончанием Второй мировой войны в мае 1945 года. Миру стали известны масштабы зверств, имевших место в Европе, и многие евреи, выжившие после Холокоста, стремились иммигрировать в Израиль.
Музей бережно хранит малейшие свидетельства эпохи. Воссоздаёт атмосферу, царившую на кораблях.
Кроме привычных стендов, макетов и подлинных предметов того времени, в музее есть даже карикатуры. Согласитесь, суметь с юмором взглянуть на происходящее дано не каждому.
Кстати, автор карикатуры — израильский художник Шмуэль Кац, выживший в Катастрофе и попавший в Подмандатную Палестину через британские лагеря для заключенных на Кипре. Работы Шмуэля Каца широко выставлялись в Израиле и за рубежом. Его акварели Иерусалима были воспроизведены в виде плакатов и открыток. Его наброски судебного процесса над Адольфом Эйхманом в Иерусалиме в 1961 году хранятся в коллекции произведений искусства Яд Вашем , Израильского управления памяти жертв Холокоста.
Особое внимание в музее мы обратили на несколько фильмов с документальными кадрами. Это бесценные свидетельства.
История нелегальной иммиграции и история создания военно-морского флота Израиля тесно переплетаются. Корабли, перевозившие нелегальных иммигрантов, были первыми военными кораблями военно-морского флота. Военно-морской флот Израиля, зародившийся в те годы, сегодня является одним из самых передовых военно-морских сил в мире.
Музей принадлежит Министерству обороны и экскурсии здесь проводят молодые ребята и девушки, которые служат во флоте.
С верхних площадок музея видно море и тот самый берег, к которому устремлялись люди, движимые мечтой и надеждой. Всё так же волны набегают на песок. Но ни волны, ни песок не расскажут о том, что здесь происходило несколько десятков лет назад. Рассказать могут только люди.
Для меня это музей из тех, про которые говорим must see.
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